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Au revoir, fashion month! It was a nostalgic show, with cheeky callouts to many of his previous collections, plus lots of new ideas to bring fashion ever forward.

As the fall collections drew to a close this week, one thing became obvious: Fantasy is over. His models carried grocery bags, yoga mats, and other detritus of everyday life. They were all emblazoned with her signature crescent moon logo. But different characters require different props, which is why this season there was also a barrage of flowers—a reminder to look for softness during hard times, perhaps—but also books, newspapers, and even a basketball. Matching serving tray top is optional.

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Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community. Demna pointed this out in a voicemail that accompanied his latest Balenciaga outing, calling creativity the new luxury. The collection ditched the oversized looks that took farcical form at Vetements, exploring new, lighter and more streamlined territory. It was a step forward and the video set was utterly hypnotic but was it creative enough to address consumer fatigue? Probably it was a bit of both, with a hefty debt to the sheer looks devised for Bianca Censori by Kanye West. As a marketing message, it worked, even if little of it will work on a sales floor. Both were in top form this season, one delving into tropes of wealth, the other boss dressing and clothing as armour. The brutalised tailoring at Ottolinger, in particular, looked awkward but full of energy. At Noir, Kei Ninomiya delivered powerful, colourful, iridescent goods that made for one of his best collections: a personal take on the very Comme silhouette of stompy shoes and frilly doll-like skirts, that had a jolly kind of lightness. And yet, it was perhaps a bit too nostalgic, a bit too much of a replica. Going forward, it will be interesting to see more Kamali and less brand code. The same cannot be said of the other big debut of the week. Going back to the roots was a common theme this season: a way to reassure clients in difficult times but also a way for designers and houses to reassess their codes and assert a stronger sense of identity. It was pure Marant, with a lot of sass.

Severe necklines covered mouths, while crafty illusion panels brought others down to the nipple. At least with a showing like this, we have the beginnings of a blueprint.

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By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The sub-label recently debuted its Cargo Fetish boots , featuring extended-leg uppers that can easily replace your bottom half. Elsewhere, here is everything dropping at Palace this week. We got you covered. Brand Ranking Brand Directory. Footwear Mar 27, Read Full Article. What to Read Next.

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Vogue Runway The epicenter of runway news, street style, and emerging trends. Courtesy, Coperni. Read full article. The same cannot be said of the other big debut of the week. Sure, his work for the house at this point adheres to a kind of scheme, not exactly a formula, but it does so in a way that is always mind-expanding. The collection ditched the oversized looks that took farcical form at Vetements, exploring new, lighter and more streamlined territory. For Good Luck. The strategically placed pockets that evoked masturbation achieved just that, but there was more: the way Nicolas Di Felice charges his work with the raw energy of desire is unique, as sleek as it is soulful, and this makes him one of the most interesting, and yet underrated auteurs working in Paris today. A handful of feathers at The Row. Intentionally slashed fabrics created textural movement, while bold, oversized shoulders and embellished chest plates felt athletic A handful of tiny flowers can bring just as much joy. Satoshi Kondo, has proven to be the heir Issey-san needed, at once free to move forward but respectful of the Miyake method.

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On a brisk Tuesday morning, Peter Do opted out of a runway show in exchange for an intimate presentation. The ole ball and chain at Alexander McQueen. This season, Vaquera was all about the money A glass or two of wine with dinner is good for your health. Yahoo Sports. The boots? Courtesy of Coperni. Bonus: each piece of clothing was made with zero cutting, minimizing waste. The rough-and-ready aesthetic translated into the severe show, which featured oversized fur coats, sleek and fitted leather mini and maxi dresses, and molded leather skirts, plus denim that riffed on the dirty denim Kylie Jenner donned for the brand. Yahoo Life Shopping. Vogue Runway The epicenter of runway news, street style, and emerging trends. Layers were cropped, but inflated, and skirts were ultra-mini but architectural. Models donned silky neglige short sets under floor-length leather coats with shearling trims; distressed cropped sweaters were styled over transparent gowns and pleated maxi skirts. Fake news at Dilara Findikoglu.